Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has organized a loose collective of cultivators who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments across the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect land from construction by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the president.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."
Collective Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to establish her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental local weather is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on